Mold Lines on Front Wings
Windshield Frame Fixed
Mold Lines on Rear Wings
Today, April 6th, more work was done on the chassis/floorpan, this really is like building the real thing, only smaller and in plastic, the front steering and suspension was fixed on, and so far the parts fit is turning out to be pretty good, the front luggage compartment if made up of five parts, and what looked like a bit of a tricky job where you think an extra pair of hands would come in handy, it actually turned out to go together very well, the instructions tell you to fix in the fuel tank at this stage, but I will leave that out until after it's been painted gloss black, as the the luggage compartment needs to be done in satin black.
Front luggage compartment
Cooling Fan Housing
Today, 8th April, I carried on with the build, following the instructions, and the next on the build was the engine, this is the first build I've ever done that includes a crankshaft and pistons to fit inside the engine block ....
The pistons are fixed and are part of the crankshaft, and won't be seen once the engine is all built up, but it's kind of neat to know there in there.
The cylinder heads are made up of 5 parts and like the rest of the build so far, the parts fit is very good, the carburettors need to be painted in a steel colour, so will be left off until everything is finally painted, the exhaust system is made up of 5 parts and again, all are a very good fit, this will painted a steel colour, once everything is painted, the engine, gearbox and exhaust can all be fixed together.
The rest of the body colour parts (Bonnet and front luggage compartment) were removed from their parts tree, the hinges on both were fixed on and will be painted along with the bodyshell once the paint has arrived, it was ordered this morning, and hopefully will arrive in a couple of days.
Today (April 9th) I got most of the smaller parts in primer, then airbrushed them in gloss black, Alclad Aluminium, Testors Steel, and a custom mix of three different shades of Humbrol paints to get the shade I wanted for the interior seats and side panels, which was then thinned using lacquer thinners, this makes the paint flow a little better and also makes the paint dry out a lot quicker than using regular enamel thinners.
The bodyshell and body parts were primered using acrylic grey plastic primer, then sanded, then given another coat of primer, before once again getting a flatting down, this time done with the flatting paper on a foam block, the bodyshell will be wiped down with panel wipe before the body gets wiped over with a tack cloth before receiving it's first coat of top coat boldy colour, the boot lid and bonnet were given the same treatment.
Before the rear suspension and brakes could be built up on the chassis, a few small parts needed to be airbrsuhed, the rear brake drums were primered using grey plastic primer, then given a couple of coats of Alclad aluminium, the rest of the parts were again primered using the same grey plastic primer, then airbrushed in gloss black lacquer.
The convertible roof panel was airbrushed in the same shade that the convertible top down option was airbrushed in, I will decide at the end of the build which one I will actually use.
The wheels supplied in the kit, which there are two sets, one for the A/B series and another set for the later C series, but both were way too shiney, and should be more of a flat silver (See photo below) so they were primered using my favorite grey plastic primer, they will now been airbushed in silver, before the chrome hubcaps are fitted
Right Hand side of body painted
Luggage Compartment, engine cover and Bumpers painted
Left Hand side of Body Painted
Body finished with a couple of coats of carnuaba wax.
Wheel painted using Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf
Wheels in the background are the other set included in the kit, you can see the difference between the colour they come in and the colour of the wheels I painted, I know which one's I prefer.
Cabriolet roof rested on the body
Masked and ready for paint
Rear Seat Frame painted
Front luggage compartment
Crankcase and one cylinder head fixed on
Engine built up
Engine finished, and exhaust fitted, the chrome tips will be fitted later
One thing I have never tried on my models is to replicate the door panel lines, but after someone asked the question, 'How was I going to do the panel lines', I had a thought about it, most modellers used a thinned down paint, but after seeing an article on the 'net about the Tamiya panel line accent paint, I thought I would give it a go, the only snag was that it isn't available here in England, so I ordered a bottle from a hobby store in Hong Kong, a week later it arrived, so today I thought I would give it a go, and I really don't know why I was worried about doing it, any residue that goes outside the panel line is easily wiped off, as I had waxed the body, I didn't need to use any thinners, as it simply wiped off.
As the flocking I had ordered from down under arrived the weekend, I thought I would make a start on doing the interior, this flocking is a lot finer than I have been used to, but the process is the same, the only difference is that this time I used a sieve, borrowed from the kitchen ....
hopefully when it is dry it will turn out o.k, but I will leave the glue to dry out overnight.
I also did a little bit of detail painting, the gearlever, which had been airbrushed in desert yellow, had the gearlever shaft painted in gloss black, and the knob was brush painted in a light beige gloss, made by mixing Tamiya desert yellow (X-59) and gloss white, the same paint was used to pick out the small switches on the dashboard, (See photo below)
Today (April 29th) I managed to finish off the dashboard, apart from a small grab handle that needs to be fixed just right of the glovebox lid, over the weekend I managed to get a little more done on the flocking, but work has had to come to a halt on that as I have run out of the adhesive I use for it, but another tube is on order, and should be with me this week, there's still a few small parts that need to be airbrushed and those will be done this week, once the floorpan has been flocked, the interior can finally be built up.
Seat frame hinges fixed on using 5 minute epoxy
50:50 on the rear seat, Right hand side has been flocked
Floorpan being Flocked
Rear Seat finished with Backrest fitted
Gearbox finished, starter motor fitted and driveshaft gaiters painted flat black
Front & Rear Bumper trim done using Bare Metal Foil
Above Photo's :- Chrome Bare Metal Foil around window frames
Door Handles and Window Winder Handles fitted
Side Panels & Dashboard fixed into Place
Steering column & Wheel fitted,
The inside of the headlamp bowls were not chromed, I'm not sure if this was a faulty chrome sprue or not, but the headlamp reflectors should be, well reflective, so they were chromed using a Molotow liquid chrome ink pen, and left to dry before putting in the headlamp lenses.
I bought this off eBay, and sadly when it arrived the windshield frame was broken, luckily it wasn't as bad as the 911 convertible I did not so long ago, a bit of cyano' glue and it was fixed, a little sanding and re-scribing the line in the trim going around the frame, and it was fixed.
But the mold lines on the body was probably one of the worst on a bodyshell I have seen for a long time, there was mold lines on the top of the front wings, rear wings and around the headlamps and front panel, they were removed using a course sanding stick follwed by a medium sanding block, hopefully it will look o.k once the grey primer goes on.
This model can be build as either the earlier B version or the later C version, I'll be building this as a 356B in Smyra Green, with the tan interior, See photo below ...
Porsche 356C Convertible in Smyra Green
Once the body had been sorted, I turned to the instructions and started the build at stage 1, which is the chassis/floorpan and side panels, there really is a lot of parts in the kit, hopefully they will all end up where they should go, so far the parts fit has been pretty good, and the front suspension, steering shaft and side panels were all fitted into place then clamped and left to dry overnight.
Body sorted and ready for primer
With the chassis/floorpan glued and clamped up, I put that aside to dry out, while starting to work on the interior, because Fujimi uses the interior panels for different models of the 356, so the holes for the door handles & window winder handle needs to be drilled out, there 356 Speedster model, which I do have to build one day, didn't have the bottom door pocket or even wind up windows, there is a very good diagram in the instructions which ones to drill out, the bottom door pockets were fixed into place after the holes had been drilled out, and clamped and set aside to dry up.
Engine Parts, and there's plenty of them ....
Engine Block, complete with Pistons & Crankshaft
Exhaust System Built Up ....
Bodyshell in Primer
Chassis painted Gloss Black Enamel
Fuel Tank painted Gloss Black Enamel
Cooling Fan Housing in Gloss Black Enamel
Cylinder Head's in Alclad Aluminium
Engine Block in Alclad Aluminium
Interior Parts Airbrushed
Seat Airbrushed in a Custom Mix of Humbrol Enamels
Today, April 11th, the paint I had ordered from Paint4U (www.paints4u.co.uk) arrived this morning, so the body and body parts were given a wipe down using panel wipe on a lint free cloth, then the body and body parts were wiped over with a tack cloth, this really cuts down the possibility of dust being left on the bodyshell and gives a much better paint job, the cellulose paint was mixed 50:50 with pure cellulose thinners, and sparyed on in light coats first, going around the panel lines, wheel arches, then coats were built up slowly, before getting a couple of wet coats, the body and other parts will be left to dry out before being wet sanded and polished.
Body being wet sanded
I started to do the wet sanding on the body, with wet sanding, you don't want to sand too hard, the idea is just to remove the orange peel that you will always get with cellulose lacquer, I started with 3600 grade paper and will work my way through until I get to the 6000 grade paper, the polishing can then begin, a lot of modellers don't go down the road of wet sanding, as they prefer to just polish, but no amount of polishing will get the effect of wet sanding, once the body had been sanded, the polishing was started using Micro Gloss liquid abrasive, followed by different grades of automotive polishes, and finished off with a couple of coats of carnauba wax.
Reflection on door after waxing
The body and body parts were finally finished off this morning (April 12th), with a couple of coats of carnauba wax, and at the same time, the wheels got a couple of coats of Tamiya TS-30 "Silver Leaf" decanted and used through the airbrush, now the wheels look a lot more prototypical to the original Porsche wheels, than the shiney silver wheels that were supplied with the kit, once the wheels were dry they were cut off the sprue and the tyres were fitted, I think painting the wheels have transformed them quite nicely.
Not a great deal done today, (April 14th), but before the day ended, I wanted to mask up the chassis so the interior floor can be airbrushed tommorow, I still haven't figured out the colour yet, but it will have to be a few shades lighter than the seats, the steering column will be masked off by putting a piece of tubing or something simular over it, the masking on the chassis was done with 6mm and 18mm Tamiya masking tape and cling film, the cling film really does a good job of stopping the paint from getting on the chassis, and is easier to remove once the airbrusing has been done.
Today (April 15th) I managed to get the inner floor airbrsuhed, as I wanted a lighter shade than the seats and door panels, I went through my light tan coloured paints and found Tamiya XF-57 Buff was a few shades lighter than the Humbrol enamel's I had mixed up for the seats and door panels, while the airbrsuh was out I painted the side panels for the front luggage compartment, it will be masked up so the inner part can be airbrushed in satin black once the gloss black has dried up.
Chrome dial rings replicated using chrome BMF
April 16th, not a great deal done in the hobby room today, but before the day had finished I decided to do the chrome rings around the clocks in the dash, these were done using a piece of chrome Bare Metal Foil, and then trimmed around the clocks, it was either luck or someone was looking over to me, as it went on without any problems, once the top dash rail has been airbrushed the same colour as the door panels and seats, the decals for the clocks can be added and the few switches that are on the dash can be picked out using a fine paintbrush.
Top Dash Padding airbrushed to match the interior
Over this weekend (April 20-21st) I've been slowly building up the engine, and painting and detailing some of the smaller parts, the interior has been put on hold, as I need to flock the floorpan, but as I didn't have the correct colour and no one in the U.K had any in stock, I've had to order it from Australia, hopefully it will be here later in the week or early next week.
The engine block, cylinder heads were fixed together using cyano glue, the cooling fan housing has to be trapped between the two, a little fidly, the cooling fan was given a black wash, which highlights the actual blased in the cooling fan, for this I used Tamiya's black panel line accent colour, which I had bought online from a hobby shop in Hong Hong, another product that isn't available here in England.
While I was detailing the smaller parts, the steering wheel was next, the centre spokes had been airbrushed using Alclad aluminium, and then the rim was painted Tamiya X-59 Desert Yellow, then dry brushed with Tamiya bronze, then given a couple of coats of Tamiya clear orange.
Cooling fan housing
Steering wheel painted to replicate a wooden rim with alloy spokes
Flywheel painted with Testors Steel enamel
With the flocking still on order and awaiting delivery, work on the 356 has been a little slow over the last few days, there's still a few small parts to airbrush, but today (April 24th) I managed to get the gearbox detailed and the mounting brackets fixed on.
Gearlever painted and detailed
Flocking started on floorpan
Rear seat panel being flocked
Foot board after being flocked
Inner sill after being flocked
Rear seat flocked
Rear seat finished
Interior Flocking Finished
It's been sometime since I've had chance to spend time in the hobby room, but I have been lucky to spend the last couple of days in there getting all the small bits ready for airbrushing, and finishing off the flocking and getting some of the interior built up, once the door handles have been fitted to the inner door panels the rest can be finally built up.
Brake, Clutch and throttle pedals fitted, gear lever and seat runners fitted.
Shock Absorbers fitted, a little bit tricky ....
Battery detailed and fitted
Side trim on Body done using Bare Metal Foil
With all the interior parts painted, it was time to start putting them together, the front seats after having the adjuster rod glued into place, were fixed into place on the seat runners that were previously fixed to the floorpan, after those were fixed into place the side panel were fitted into place after having the door handle and window winder handles fitted to them, the side panels fit to the side of the floorpan and also held into place at the front of the panel, once the glue had dried the rear seats that were previously built up were fitted, these simply drop into place and held in place with some 5 minute epoxy glue
Front Seats fixed into Place
Rear Seats Fixed into Place
Bare Metal Foil finished on the body
Interior tub fitted onto floorpan, wheels fitted and engine installed
Convertible hood fitted, after doing all the detail work to the interior, I thought it a shame to use the top up option, so top down it was ...
Bumper fitted with overriders and fitted to the body along with the number plate surround, (Photo's above & Below)
Body fitted onto floorpan, unlike the Porsche 911 I built earlier, the body on this was a much better fit
Headlamp lenses fitted to the bowls, there are actually two lenses to fit, an inner one, and one that covers the complete headlamp, the lenses were fixed into place using Microscale Crystal clear, a PVA based glue that dried, as the name suggests, Crystal clear.