Scale Auto Replica's

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Revell Citroen 2CV "Sausss Ente"

After building the Tamiya Citroen 2CV, back in 2011 I bought the Revell version of the 2CV Charleston, which I still haven't started, so last year, Revell released this one, so with another build on hold, I ordered the Citroen Bamboo green so I could make a start on this one, as I've built the Tamiya version I will, from time to time, do a comparison between the two, both good and bad.

Looking at the part sprues, it's good to see that Revell hasn't just reboxed this version and used the same parts just with different decals like some model companies do, the Charleston and the Sausss Ente have a totally different pattern to the seat faces, and it's nice to see they have molded the proper pattern into the seats of this one.

With most builds, I usually start with the bodyshell, and this build will be no different, the strengthening bars molded into the top of the body and between the front wings were cut out, and the body checked for any mold lines and defects, and I was pleased to see that apart front some very light mold lines on top of the front wings, there was nothing else for me to clean up, the mold lines were removed with a medium sanding stick and was put on the paint stand ready for a coat of primer. 

After I had sorted the bodyshell, I now started work on the chassis, again like the Tamiya 2cv, V.W Beetle and Mini Cooper, this version of the 2CV by Revell, is a lot less simplified than the Tamiya model, but compared to the Tamiya version, this will be a much stronger model, and a lot of detail on the Tamiya models are hidden once the model has been finished, the suspension on the Tamiya 2CV does actually function, but since building mine a few years ago, the ride height of it has settled a little, the one will not be ale to do that, as the front & rear suspension units are glued into position.

As with all models that I've not built before, I do a lot of dry fitting, the only fault I've found so far is the drive shaft assembly is a very tight fit where it mounts to the gearbox, instead of forcing it, I took a fine file and just made the fit better, now when it's been primed and painted, it should fit without any problem, again, compared to the Tamiya version, the drive shafts are much simplified, but much stronger, I did have trouble getting the drive shafts on the Tamiya version, there won't be any problems like that on this version.

The photo above left, shows that the inner wings need a slight modification, now at this point I wondered if Revell had made a mistake with the instructions or the parts themselves, and here is where dry fitting parts comes in useful, it turned out that without the modification, the wheels will not be able to turn to their full lock, but as I'm going to be displaying the model with the wheels pointed in the straight ahead position, I left the parts as they were.

One thing I have found with all the later Revell (Germany) models, is that the detail, where you can see it, is a lot better than some of the same subjects produced by Tamiya, and the interior is a good comparison, the seats, on all Tamiya models I've built, Mini Cooper, VW Beetle and the 2CV, the seats have been molded in one piece, without the frame that the real cars would have had, where as all the Revell versions I've built have had great detail in this area, I'm pleased to say that their 2CV is no different, the parts shown above have only been dry fitted together, but will be primed and painted in the correct colours, before the seat backs are fitted to the seats, there are two holes (Shown in previous Photos), have to be drilled out so the head restraints can be fitted, as the Sausss Ente was a 2CV produced for the German market, all cars produced for the German market had to be supplied with Head restraints as a standard fitment.

The only problem I have found so far in this kit, is that the wheels are not a great fit on the axles, I usually mask off the stub axles to the wheels fit o.k, otherwise you can find the wheel won't fit on to them when they've been painted, this time I won't mask them off, as a coat of primer and paint might make them a better fit, also there are four injector pin marks on the inside of the bonnet, nothing too serious, but a few minutes spent with a medium sanding pad soon made history of them, the hinge was then fixed into place and held with a spring clamp while the glue sets up, the front seats are supplied in three parts, the seat itself, the base frame and the seat back, all fit together very well, but like most seats in models, you are left with a seam around the backrest, that in real life wouldn't exist, so once they were glued together, I mixed up some two part polyester filler and filled in the gaps, once dry, they were sanded smooth, making them look a lot more realistic.

One thing that puzzles me, and It's probably nothing more than Revell have already planned more 2CV models, I say this because on their earlier Charleston model and this one, there are parts there that are marked "Do Not Use", one being another front grille (See Photo Above Right), this grille is front an earlier 2CV (1970-71), so I'm not sure what Revell's plans are, but this and the inclusion of the lug not details on the wheels, when it's not really needed for this model or the Charleston, only Revell know what's in the pipeline, a Fourgonnette perhaps ?

Once all the parts were mounted on spring clips or wooden cocktail sticks, they were given a couple of coats of grey acrylic primer, then they were sorted into groups of the colour they need to be airbrushed, then the body and body parts were airbrushed in Citroen Bamboo green (AC-533) and the wheels and bumpers were airbrushed in Citroen Rose Grey (AC-140)

With the body painted, it was set aside to be wet sanded and polished later, I started building up the interior, the floorpan was airbrushed in body colour, after it was dry, it was masked up so the interior floor could be airbrushed in matt black, for this I used VHT matt black, which to me looks very like the matt rubber matting that the rear car would have had, the seats were first airbrushed using Revell # 89, they were then masked up so the seats back and the side could be airbrushed in a darker shade of brown, Revell recommends # 382, which I hadn't got, I looked to see if I had any Humbrol that would be a good match, # 118, was the one listed on my comparison charts, but as I hadn't got any of this, I used the paint chip to mix my own using a few different Humbrol colours, the same paint was used to airbrush the interior door panels, the rear seat needed masking up once more to airbrush the molded in seat belts, there were airbrushed in Tamiya semi gloss black and the buckles were picked out using the Molotow liquid chrome pen, once they were done, the seat frames which were airbrushed in gloss black were fitted to the base of the seats and then the front and rear seats were then fixed onto the floorpan using clear acrylic craft glue, once painted the side panels were fitted and held in place with masking tape, the dashboard was next and finished off with the steering column and wheel.

Next I started work on the chassis and engine, the chassis which had previously had the steering and suspension fitted, were all airbrushed in gloss black acrylic lacquer, the engine block is supplied in two halves, once fixed together they were primed and airbrushed using Alclad aluminium, the heat exchangers and cooling fan housing were airbrushed in a 50:50 mix of black and dark grey, the valve covers were picked out using Testors steel, and all fixed together, before fitting the engine into the chassis, the decals for the cooling fan were added, on the decal sheet it looks like it's just one decal, but once soaked in water, they are in fact supplied as four separate decals, some Walthers Solvaset soon had them snuggled down and once dry looked a lot better than I had thought they would, once everything had dried up, the engine was fitted into the chassis.

With the engine and gearbox fitted to the chassis, the driveshafts and steering could now be fitted, once that was done, the inner wings which had been painted in body colour were fitted, before the interior tub was fitted onto the chassis, acrylic glue was put on the top of the chassis and once in place, held there with masking tape and a few spring clamps, then the bulkhead, again, painted in body colour was fitted, now all the ancillaries for the engine could be fitted, the heating pipes were also fitted, everything lined up perfectly, I'm getting to liking these later Revell model kits.

With the chassis and interior now finished and fitted together, the wheels were fitted onto the axles and held in place with a couple of straight edges while the 5 minute epoxy dried, the body, which had been wet sanded and polished, and had the side trims picked out  using aluminium bmf, could now be fitted together, the fit was that good only a few drops of 5 minute epoxy and some applied to the rear of the chassis was all that was needed to fix the two together, there was no gap between the chassis and sides of the body, no glue was used on them, the interior mirror was airbrushed in satin black and the mirror face was picked out with a Molotow 1mm liquid chrome pen, the body & chassis was held together with Tamiya masking tape while the glue set up.

With the body now fitted to the chassis, I could now start to fit the decals, as really, this kit is all about the decals, without them, it's just a Bambook green 2CV, they are supplied as separate decals for each door, plus one for around the top of the rear wing and a small on (Not yet fitted) just before the front door on the base of the front wing, after soaking in warm water for around 20 seconds, they were placed into place and brushed with Walthers Solvaset to get the decals to snuggle down, making them looking like vinyl stickers, which is what would have been used on the real vehicle.

All Finished .....