After building the Fujimi Porsche 356, I thought I would be build something a little less complicated, for a few years now I've been putting off building American models, not because I don't like them, because the opposite is correct, I do, but getting my hands on the paint that was the correct shade was near impossible, but now that I can get paint shipped over from MCW Automotive Finishes http://mcwfinishes.com/ I can now safely order paint from them, and have it sent over from the U.S.A
This one is going to be painted in Chrysler Copper bronze metallic.
I know some AMT kits are a bit hit & miss, you either kit a good well molded and detailed kit, or one with badly molded parts and hardly any detail, luckily this one is one of the good ones, with very good molded parts, and plenty of details, the interior builds up with separate side panels, and front bench seat, the rear seat is also molded as a separate part, unlike a lot of american kits.
Interior dry fitted together (Above & Right)
Sadly a few of the suspension parts were broken in the box, this isn't a fault of the kit itself, and was probably done before I bought the kit, a bit of Tamiya liquid cement and a few clamps soon got the problem sorted, another problem with this kit is that the rear bumper had been stripped of it's chrome, I'm really not sure why this was done, it's been half painted with grey primer, it will get chrome using the K Colors chrome paint I bought at the Telford show last year.
My usual method of building a model is to first prepare and paint the bodyshell and body coloured parts, but this time I had to do things slightly different, as the paint I've ordered from MCW (http://mcwfinishes.com/) is as we speak winging it's way accross the atlantic, and should hopefully be with me soon, so to get the build going, I've started with the engine, chassis and the interior.
The instructions tell you to put the exhaust system in before mounting the rear axle and suspension, but after doing a dry fit, it is possible to fit the exhaust system afterwards, it means the suspension and axle can be glued into place and painted along with the chassis, making for a cleaner build.
After the dashboard was airbrushed in satin black, it was masked up so the light tan could be airbrushed, looking at photo's of the real car, Humbrol 103 was found to be a very close match, so that was thinned and airbrushed on, once dry the white parts were hand painted and then the chrome trim pieces were picked out using a Molotow liquid chrome pen, once all that had been done and left to dry up, the decals were added.
Once the engine had been finished, it was fitted into the chassis and held in place using a rubber band wrapped around the front axle, the exhaust system had been fitted before the engine went in, and although my idea of putting the exhaust in after the rear suspension and axle and the front torsion bars had been fitted worked, it certainly took a little bit of time and a lot of patience, but it was worth the extra hassles, and it did make for a better, cleaner finish, see photo below right.
The air cleaner element was picked out with some flat white acrylic, and built up as per the instructions, then fitted to the engine after it had been fitted onto the chassis, with just the decals to be fitted.
Once the bulkhead had been painted body colour, it was masked off so the fuel tank could be painted gloss black,and then the bottom of the floorpan and bulkhead was masked up so the interior floor could be airbrushed in flat black, for this I used some VHT flat black, as I've found this paint to have the best flat finish I've found, once all the paint had dried, the rubber mats that are molded as part of the floor were hand painted using Tamiya semi gloss black.
The rear and front seats were glued into place using clear acrylic craft glue, and clamped in place and left overnight to dry up.
Once the seats had dried up the side panels and the dashboard could be fitted, and all held in place with Tamiya masking tape, again, this was left to dry overnight.
Once the glue had dried up and all the masking tape removed, the interior was then fixed onto the chassis and held in place with spring clamps and masking tape and left again overnight to dry up.
The photo's above show the body and bonnet as they had just been painted, it was applied using my Paasche VL double action airbrush set at 20 p.s.i, although when dry the gloss had lessened slightly, but would have come up with a polish, but there was the problem of a few dust nibs in the finish to sort out, they were taken care of with some 6,000 grit paper, so instead of polishing it at this stage, I used some 1K acrylic clearcoat and let that dry out for 48 hours before I could start the wet sanding and polishing.
Photo above are the body and bonnet after being wet sanded with 6000,8000 and then finished off with 12000 grit paper. then polished using four different grades of polishing compound, the headlamps are supplied as part of the chrome sprue, but the centre parts needed to be painted in body colour, the reflectors and the edges were masked up and the copper brown was airbrushed on using a Paasche F1 airbrush.
I wasn't going to strip the chrome off the front bumper, but looking at it closely, the chrome plating on the edge had been worn off, I tried touching it up, first with the liquid chrome pen, it did a good job of covering the damage, but it was a different shade of chrome, I then tried bmf, but again, that stood out, so the only option left was the strip it and paint it with K Colors chrome paint to match the rear bumper.
Photo's above show the front bumper now in gloss black basecoat, ready for the chrome to be applied, because the basecoat is water based, it needs to dry for around 72 hours before the chrome can be added.
The interior lamps, (Top right) had bmf applied to replicate the frame, them a small amount of Tamiya gloss white was added to some Alclad clear to give it a translucent look, the three chrome strips on the interior roof panel was done at the same time, again, using chrome bmf.
The underside ot the bonnet was masked using Tamiya masking tape and then airbrushed using flat black VHT paint, using the dry spray technique to give it a slightly fabric looking to it, instead of just looking like flat back paint.
Photo's above :- Rear bumper, stripped and redone using chrome Alclad, the rear bumper was great using the K Colors chrome paint, but after putting on the clearcoat, it dulled the finish slightly, but not wanting to wait the time that the K Colors process takes, I had no choice to use Alclad, I'm happy with the finish, and will not be putting any clearcoat anywhere near it.
Photo's Above :- Bare Metal foil finished on the bodyshell, before putting on the BMF, I always run masking tape around the trim being covered in bmf, it gives two edges for the blade cut up against, I always use a brand new # 11 scalpel blade, as using an older blade doesn't give a clean cut, and can, if the blade is not so sharp, will actually tear the bmf.
Photo's Above :- Front & rear screens, the first photo on the left shows the rear screen (On the left of the photo) polished, the front windshield (On the right) still waiting to be polished, you can just about see the difference in the clarity of the clear plastic, Middle photo :- Rear screen polished, Photo right :- showing the front windshield after being polished, for this, if the marks are only light scuff marks, as they were here, I use Holts motorcycle polish, for anything with deeper marks I use Novus plastic polish.
With the front & rear screens polished, they were now fitted, the front one with clear acrylic craft glue, the rear one was fixed in place using a 5 Minute fix UV activated glue, a product I well recommend using on clear parts, with the windows now fitted, the body could now be fitted to the floorpan, 5 minute epoxy was used for this and masking tape and spring clamps were used to hold them together while the glue sets up.
With the body and floorpan fixed together, parts such as the front and rear lights, bumpers and front grille could now be fitted, the radiator and hoses were fitted along with the radiator support, the front grille was painted inside the recess trim with a mix of dark grey and aluminium, and was fixed into place with 5 minute epoxy, the only item left to do now was the rear side emblems, these are molded as part of the bodyshell, but with a coat of primer and a few coats of top coat and clearcoat, the detail is all but hidden, but I was always going to add them from the photo etch detail set, I would suggest that if you're going to use the ones molded into the bodyshell, it would be be a better bet to mask off these before airbrushing the top coat, the photoetch parts are made up in two parts, the backplate and the the 300C scripts, after cutting them from the sheet, both the back parts were first airbrushed in white primer, then masked up and the blue section was airbrushed in Tamiya flat blue, and then once dry, they were masked up again and the red section was airbrushed, this time using Tamiya flat red, they were left to dry before fixing the 300C scripts onto them using some acrylic clear, then the whole emblem was given a few coats of clear acrylic, trying to build it up to a slight dome, as in real life it was a one piece badge that had a slight dome shape to it, one dry they were fitted to the model with some clear acrylic glue and left to dry.
Finished .... Body was airbrushed using MCW (See Link at the top of the page) Chrysler Copper Brown metallic, and clear coated with 1K acrylic lacquer, wet sanded and polished, all chrome trim was done using BMF.